On September 22, the new Gucci look was born. Sabato De Sarno debuted his first full spring 2024 collection for the Italian house since his appointment in January 2023 from inside a red room that faded to black when the lights went down. The young, waifish models walked in a pathway of light on the runway, their every step illuminated.
De Sarno—who worked behind the scenes at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana before joining Valentino for 13 years—let go of the madcap, maximalist look associated with former creative director Alessandro Michele. The designer opened the show with a series of looks that zeroed in on everyday essentials and a new kind of super-minimal suiting. There were suit elements reworked, with little white tees and tank tops, big platform loafers, white dresses with severe darts and, most of all, blazers and shorts paired with nothing else. The teeny short suit (also seen heavily at Tom Ford) has arrived—and De Sarno put a laser focus on it for spring.
Embossed monogram shift dresses, oversize tailored vests worn unbuttoned, glittering crystal bras, and monogram baggy dresses and matching bags also dominated the collection, which De Sarno named “Ancora.” Most important (and distinct) to the new Gucci were the blazers and suits styled with no shirts underneath—they gave the more everyday pieces a bit of editorial flair.
Although De Sarno’s approach to Gucci, at first glance, may appear to be going back to the basics, there was truly something for everyone in his debut collection. Thick, stiff leather jackets with lapels, white sheer tank tops, and beige-ified suits marked a new twist on quiet elegance. Still, the crystal lapels, patent leather stripes, glittering tunics, and one very special tinsel-fringed chartreuse coat will surely leave Michele-era Gucci fans very happy.
If this collection is any indication, accessories will still be at the forefront of the brand, as each model carried a bag—many of them also wore chunky gold jewelry and sunglasses here and there. Referential twists on Gucci signatures were all over the spotlit runway. De Sarno is well on his way to developing his own house codes.