Like many menswear buffs, I hunt down perfectly patinated vintage Levi’s like it’s a sport. Unlike most menswear buffs, I also swear by the brand’s new releases. You and I both know it: New Levi’s are often way cheaper, and undeniably easier to get.
Even better is the fact that the brand has increasingly realized the appeal of its vintage silhouettes, and now frequently reissues widely available riffs on them to capitalize on the demand. These vintage-inspired, new release Levi’s are my personal sweet spot, which is why the brand’s recently-launched 555 Relaxed Straight and 568 Loose Straight fits immediately caught my attention—and why I’ve been rocking them all summer.
555 Relaxed Straight Jean: Perfect In Almost Every Way
My favorite of the new launches, the 555, is based on a retro silhouette that dates back to Levi’s styles from the 1970s and ’80s. It’s a straight leg, but with a more relaxed fit than the classic 501 through the hip and thigh—reminiscent of older jeans that were designed purely for comfort and a laid-back life, still without ever looking sloppy. (In a further nod to Levi’s heritage, the 555 also includes traditional details like arcuate stitching on the back pockets, plus the wash is already a little faded, and of course you get the red tab.) While I typically size up a little to a 32W in 501s and 505s, when I saw that the 555s were relaxed, I opted for a 30W, and slipping into them was like the moment Clark Griswold’s Christmas lights finally worked—pure elation.
They’re 100 percent cotton, sit perfectly at the waist, and again, offer a touch more wiggle room all the way down than 501s, with a slightly larger leg opening (17”) compared to the 501 (15”) and 505 (16”). It’s something my athletic thighs appreciate, and even better, the roomy seat area allows me to comfortably wear a size 30W without needing a belt, making me feel like an honorary member of The Outsiders.
If you couldn’t tell, my new 555s are the jeans I’ve been reaching for the most these past few months. They pair as well with my sauteéd summer canvas sneakers as with my horse-bit loafers—allowing me to toe the outfit balance beam of giving a shit and not giving a shit, depending on the day. Up top, T-shirts, polos, poplins, and unstructured blazers all go equally well with these pseudo-lived-in jeans, and they’ve also washed incredibly well. I just throw them in cold water with the rest of my laundry, then shake and line-dry them overnight. The next morning, the denim is a little denser, which makes them feel new again, but it loosens back up after a couple of wears.
568 Loose Straight Jean: A Looser, Right-Now Fit
The other new pair of Levi’s I’ve been loving are the very loose 568 jeans, riffing on a look that was popular in the late 1980s and through the 1990s, and embodying the calm and collected style of a skater preparing to attempt a backslide down a hubba. I loved the weathered black color immediately, and after washing and line drying them to shrink the waist slightly, they now have the perfect stovepipe look, sitting nicely on top of my shoes without stacking. Like the 555s, these are 100 percent cotton and feature a zip fly, which suits me just fine.
Also like the 555s, the leg opening is 17 inches, however, this time it’s a loose fit from the thigh down to the ankle, so you get a lot more volume. I’ve loved rocking them as part of an unconventional Canadian tuxedo with a dark wash RRL denim shirt, and while they’ve certainly gotten some love in spring and summer, I know they’ll really shine in the fall with some crepe-weathered Wally’s and a Type II Levi’s denim jacket.
Of course, the argument for only buying vintage Levi’s is a familiar and strong one. The fades are unique, the fabric is always 100 percent cotton, and it’s good for the planet. But I’d wager that buying either of these new pairs actually fits into that same logic. Both are 100 percent cotton, come with their own fades already (that you’ll add to with your own wear) and, because your exact size and inseam length will almost definitely be in stock, you can get the fit exactly right the first time — something that can’t be said for most vintage pickups. If all of this means they’re the last pair of jeans you’ll need for years to come, I think that’s something we can all feel good about.
