From the very beginning, the best Dior fragrances came with a guarantee: to wear one would be to be altogether transported into the haute world of the French designer. The first of many of the best men’s fragrances emerging from the brand proved it: Eau Sauvage was conceived by Christian Dior himself, alongside master perfumer Edmond Roudnitska. Launching in 1966, Eau Sauvage’s fresh citrus notes would become almost inconceivably popular, setting the precedent for many formulations to follow it, and cementing Dior as one of the world’s very best fragrance brands.
But which of Dior’s many men’s and unisex fragrances are worth a place in your scent wardrobe? To find out, I was tasked with choosing my favorites. With over 25 years of experience in the industry and the unique qualification of having smelled every single Dior release in that time, I got to work. Eventually, coming to the conclusions you can read below (though not before lamenting that having to choose was like choosing between children).
1. Best Overall Dior Cologne: Sauvage Eau Forte
Championing a revolutionary, high-pressure nano-emulsion technology (which is exclusive to the house of Dior) Sauvage Eau Forte, is the very first high-concentration men’s fragrance in a water-based, alcohol-free, formula. Blended by Dior’s current perfume creative director Francis Kurkdjian, it’s a unique reinterpretation of the original Sauvage which brings a sensation of unprecedented freshness by ‘saturating’ the key ingredients with water; as fresh as an eau de toilette but with the power of an eau de parfum.
Kinder to sensitive skin, I actually prefer this to the original Sauvage due to its long-lasting tenacity. I also love the way it plays with fresh aromatic spices in its top—that’s instead of the citrus notes traditionally used in many men’s fragrances. It finishes with a sophisticated and “wet-effect” blend of musky, woody notes, and bleached lavender that has almond-like and licorice facets.
2. Best Non-Gender Dior Cologne: La Collection Privée Ambre Nuit
La Collection Privée is Dior’s more exclusive and non-gender-defined line of perfumes. Though made with the finest and the rarest of ingredients, I am always a little suspicious when a fragrance house develops a more premium line. How much better are they than the brand’s more commercial fragrances, really? With Privée, the answer is optimistic. Each and every scent (and yes I have tried them all) opens up a world of olfactive imagination. My favorite from the bunch would have to be Ambre Nuit; in my view, this is the definitive evening fragrance. One of the more traditionally “masculine” (in perfumery terms) of the unisex line, it’s both luxurious and long-lasting. Giving Middle Eastern vibes, it contrasts a velvety Damascus rose with a rich, dark amber note in its trail; an olfactive play between light and shadow. Composed by (then) in-house perfumer, François Demachy, it’s opulent, sensual and refined; my go-to for date nights.
3. Most Uplifting Dior Cologne: Fahrenheit
A bestseller with unwavering customer loyalty since its launch in 1988, Fahrenheit is a favorite with men of a certain age (including me), but it doesn’t pigeonhole itself. A recent revival of heritage scents rediscovered by a new generation has gotten people of all ages talking about this fragrance once again. Very charismatic and a little bit exotic, Fahrenheit was the first fragrance I actually bought with my own money (having previously relied on my family to gift me aftershaves for Christmas). It holds a very sentimental place in my heart, and thankfully today’s formula stays true to its original composition. Created by a perfumery crack team of Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Michel Almanac, and Maurice Roger, its formulation is a very complex eau de toilette, which leaves a powerful and enduring trail of distinction. Structured around fresh notes of Sicilian mandarin, the scent comprises a unique blend of masculine leather (to imitate the smell of the Russian leather used to make the hussars’ boots), and wood notes, with a unique to Dior green violet leaf accord.
4. Most Invigorating Dior Cologne: Sauvage Extreme
To fully understand and appreciate the evolution and influence Dior’s fragrances have had on the world of masculine perfumery, you need to start at the very beginning. Eau Sauvage—a collaboration between monsieur Dior and master perfumer Edmond Roudnitska—was Dior’s first-ever fragrance for men. Launched in 1966, it marked a turning point in the popularity of fresh, cologne-like and citrus-based scents.
In 2010, the formula was revisited by Dior’s (then) in-house perfumer, François Demachy, resulting in Eau Sauvage Extrême: a fresher, stronger, more-is-more hybrid of the iconic original. Now don’t get me wrong, the original is (obviously) great, but in my opinion, this intense remake elevates the legendary scent to the next level. Bold and contemporary, it opens with the signature Calabrian bergamot found in the original eau de toilette, paired with grapefruit and Sicilian lemon. An aromatic blend of lavender, elemi, basil, mint, and jasmine then has a moment before drying down to a woody base of oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, and Virginia cedar.
5. Most Lightweight Dior Cologne: Homme Sport
Sometimes, we don’t need (or want) our fragrance to scream and shout; on days like this, where I require my scent to play background music instead of making moves, I always reach for Dior Homme Sport. Inspired by men who came from nothing and achieved glory in the boxing ring (De Niro as Jake LaMotta in Raging Bull, Muhammed Ali), it’s brimming with vitality and is immediately recognizable as belonging to the Dior Homme universe; essentially citrus with an undercut of muscular woody elegance.
